Day 4 - 3 Miles + Machu Picchu

Sun Gate * Machu Picchu * Agua Calientes *Yucay

We woke at 4 am this morning so that we could be on the trail by 430. It was a short walk to the check point, where we waited for 45 minutes to show our documents to then enter the last 3 miles of the trail. Roger kept a brisk pace along the mostly flat section of this trail. There was one small section however that was so steep that we had to climb it on our hands and knees! After about 90 minutes of hiking, we reached the Sun Gate entrance to Machu Picchu. The only way to see this part of the complex is if you have hiked the Inca Trail.

It wasn’t overly crowded, and we easily found a nice place to sit and just take in the amazing view. The Sun was actually rising behind us and then slowly descending down the mountain until it washed over the entire Machu Picchu complex. It was nice to be blessed with a sunny day. We patiently waited until most others had left the complex then enjoyed the moment and took some amazing picture of our group.

The hike down into Machu Picchu took only a few minutes and the reward was well worth the 3 days of hiking and our very sore muscles. We spent a long time in the upper section of the citadel enjoying the amazing views before we headed to the main entrance to regroup, hit the bano, and grab a snack. We needed to get some energy from our early start if we were to enjoy our tour of the complex.

It’s remarkable that this complex was preserved until the early 1900s and Peru has done a good job and protecting it and making it a pristine, beautiful place to visit. There aren’t any tacky vendors hanging around or unnecessary buildings. Visitors are now limited to a fixed amount each day, which even though full, didn't feel crowded. We walked around for a couple of hours visiting the store houses, temples, common areas, and several different structures. There is evidence now that perhaps a civilization existed there before the Incan Empire. Like other places, the Incans left this area when the Spainards arrive and escaped into the jungle.

After a yummy Buffett lunch just outside the exit to the complex, we took the 20-minute bus ride down to Aguas Calientes. The bus ride is totally sketch and it wouldn't take much for a bus to have an accident and fall off of the steep cliff. It was spooky to look out the window as we were descending the windy, steep road.

Day 3 - 10 miles

Roger says our group has a good pace, so we didn't need to get up extra early for our 10-mile trek today. Right out of the gate this morning we had a 2 hour hike up to 12,900 feet. We were so glad it wasn’t 6 hours like yesterday, but it was still exhausting, and we felt every step with our sore muscles. It was amazing to see the Valley below us from where we camped and the Valley in front of us, these mountains are so vast. Again, we ran into the LDS family from Texas on the summit and the kids teased Sydney and got the boys phone number so they could connect at BYU. So funny to meet other members of the church in such a remote area.

After the summit we had a steep downhill section until the trail leveled out. We visited another impressive site that was accessed by very steep steps. The rest of the morning until lunch was spent on our favorite part of the trek thus far. It was like we were walking through a Hawaiian jungle. There were vines, colorful mosses, and a mostly flat trail sections and gorgeous vistas. We had no idea there would be so many eco systems along the Inca trail. Just before lunch we ran into a llama nursing her baby directly on the trail. We had to walk around her, within inches, we stared eye to eye with her, but passed by without problems.

At lunch the cook surprised us with a cake, complete with jello topping. I have no idea how he pulled that off, it's not like he had all morning to sit around and bake. After lunch we had the difficult task of descending over 3000 ft completely with steps. There were a few flat sections, but for the most part we walked downstairs for 3 hours. Our legs were screaming at us. We walked slowly and carefully so that we wouldn’t trip and fall. The porters, on the other hand, hopped and skipped down the steps. We would yell out "Porter" as they came down the trail and quickly we would moved hillside so they could keep their momentum.

The last moment of the trek was impactful. About 20 minutes outside of our camp, we came upon yet another site with an impressive hillside filled with terraces. We could see the Urubamba River below us and the back side of the Machu Picchu Mountain. Our guide just let us sit down for a long time and soak in the beauty of the place. It was peaceful. We didn't talk much, we just reflected on the magnificent mountains.

Our final camp was at 8500 ft and felt so much warmer than the previous couple of nights. We said good-bye to our porters and cooks as this would be the last time we would see them. They were very gracious, and we were grateful for their help, attentiveness, and excellent cooking!

Day 2 - 7 miles

We decided we felt a bit like explorers.  I don't know why.  Maby because we are traveling with a head guide, 2 cooks, and 14 porters.  Combine that with the 8 of us there are 25 of us in total in this expedition.  It's strange watching the porters carry our gear, set up the camp, and lay out our sleeping bags.  When we arrive at camp each night the porters clap at our accomplishment.  Of course, they have cruised ahead of us in sandals carrying 3x as much gear and have camp all set up. So, it's really the porters who deserve a standing ovation.

Today we hiked a total of 7 miles and climbed 4000 ft to the highest point of the trek 13,900 feet, Dead women's pas.  Holy cow, that was a hard climb.  About 75% of the climb was all stars and once we hit 12,000 ft the air was thin.  Although our lungs seemed to be OK, our thighs are killing us!

The last 500 vertical feet were killers.  We would count 50 steps then stop and rest and repeat.  Sydney and Charlie didn't seem to have any problems.  But Lara and Irene were slow!  They were steady, but slow.  We hiked uphill for about 6 hours today.  

Once we reached the summit, we marveled at the vastness of the Andes mountains.  They were amazing.  The trek down to camp was 2 miles of steps.  Equally as hard as the climb on everyone's muscles, but the breathing was a lot easier. We had to carefully watch where we placed every step so that we wouldn't slip or trip. The steps were not even, and some were very steep.

We made good time today.  We arrive in camp with enough time that we could relax, stretch, and enjoy a snack.  It's much colder tonight - but the stars are amazing.  Funny thing, we rain into a kid wearing a BYU sweatshirt today.  He'll be a freshman next year with Sydney.  Small world.  

Day 1 - 7 miles

 Inca Trail

Today we started the Inca Trail!  Just a few days ago Lara didn't think she would be able to join because of her pulled hamstring, but she's been feeling better, so we all started off together.

Before we headed out on the trek, we made a quick visit to the small town of Ollantaytambo.  

We had a leisurely start to our day as we waited for Dave and Irene to arrive from the US, so we didn't get on the trail until 11:30.  In fact, our guide was worried.  He said he had never started a hike so late in the day. 

Today we hiked 7 miles with an elevation gain of 1500 Ft.  the trail is dryer that one would have thought with cactus all over.  It's also pepper with little communities that sell water and treats.  Amazingly, despite the basic accommodations, they have electricity and satellite TV.

We started the trek by following the Urubamba River for a couple of miles through a beautiful canyon.  Behind us we could see a glacier topped mountain rising to 19,000 ft.  It's spectacular.  Afterward we headed into another canyon leaving the Urubamba River.  Being surrounded by the towering mountains is majestic.  At one point we came around a bend and below us in the canyon was an impressive archeological site.  Although last used by the Inca, some of these sites are thousands of years old.  We even saw a burial cave that was discovered by National geographic.  We are traveling with our guide, plus a crew of 16 others.  14 Sherpas and 2 cooks.  It feels pretty posh to be trekking and camping while a crew carries our gear, sets up our tents, and cooks our food.

The food is both amazingly delicious and beautifully prepared. When we arrive for lunch, it was all set up with a tablecloth and then served from a lovely platter. It's hard to imagine feeling pampered on a camping trip.  Bet we do.