Thursday, June 30, 2016

Paris - Versailles

Versailles day trip
23,175 steps

We hadn't planned to go to Versailles, but when our children heard our friends talking about how much fun they had at this grand Palace, we decided to go.  Paris has been very reasonable in terms of costs with kids.  Eric and I bought a 4 day museum pass for most things, and the kids have gotten in free - including Versailles. I hadn't done my research of Versailles, so we didn't get to see the fountains running, but it was spectacular nonetheless.  We rented bikes for an hour and enjoyed the lower gardens, more like small roads through a wooded area around a canal shaped like a cross.  We enjoyed just being on a bike and not worrying about getting from point A to point B.

After our bike ride we wandered the gardens and enjoyed the shapes of the trees, hedges with flower beds, and the Orange garden where Louis XIV actually had a portable orange grove he could move inside when it was cold.

Our final stop was the Palace - this puts to shame any Palace we've seen thus far.  No wonder the French wanted to get rid of the Monarchy.  It's gold, fancy, and over the top.  The hall of mirrors is impressive and it's not hard to imagine fancy people in dresses and wigs parading around showing off for each other.  

Tonight we relaxed at an outdoor cafe eating an omelet and Tunisian crepe.  Eric and I finished off our dinner with a chocolate eclair - the kids wanted ice cream (it's their day to buy their own treat, and that's what they wanted!).  We wandered over to Notre-Dame, a short 5 minute walk from our apartment and enjoyed starting up at the beautiful Gothic church.  It has been so nice to be so close to such an amazing church.  Tomorrow we are off to Normandy.

Versailles Gardens

Versailles Fountains


Versailles - Hall of Mirrors

Bridge connecting Isle Saint Louis to Notre Dame

Relaxing in front of Versailles

Notre Dame from the back






Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Paris - from top to bottom

Eiffel Tower * Musee d'Army * The hunt for backpacks * Sewer Tour * Notre Dame * Louvre
A record 26,173 ft (11.25 miles)

We set a new trip record today with walking 11.25 miles (more than 26,000 steps).  It required a mid-day nap - everyone participated.  The kids really wanted to try again to get up the Eiffel Tower so we left the house by 7:45 to get in line early.  By 9:30 we were on the top of the tower.  It was actually fun to climb up through the skeleton of the tower.  We concluded that the kids had never been on a taller structure - they thought that was neat.

After the Eiffel Tower Lara took Maren and Emma to buy backpacks.  The older girls only brought a purse with them and we are tired of carrying around their water bottles and jackets.  We had to walk 25 minutes to a store we knew sold the specific style of backpack they wanted - a back pack for Sweden.  So, our big shopping experience in Paris was at a Swede store.  While we shopped Eric took Charlie and Sydney to look at the Army Museum, they loved everything boys would love at that kind of a museum (guns, uniforms, etc, etc).

We met up again at the Paris Sewers tour and plugged our noses as we walked around the Paris Sewers for 30 minutes thinking of Jean Valjean carrying Maurice on his shoulders to escape from certain death.  Apparently Victor Hugo had a friend that worked for the sewer and helped him write an accurate description of them.  It was definitely a unique thing to do.

Before we went back to our apartment for our nap, we went to a very fancy chocolate shop and bought everyone a very small piece of very expensive, very good chocolate (I had dark chocolate with a lemon basil fondant in the middle). Afterwards we went inside Notre-Dame.  We pass Notre-Dame every time we leave our apartment.  I love seeing it from every possible angle and hearing the bells ring throughout the day.

We had an evening visit to the Louvre and missed all the crowds.  We walked right in (absolutely no line) and enjoyed ourselves completely.  Thanks to Maren's AP Art History cards we played a game looking for famous  pieces of art - the reward being a Macaron cookie (limit 2). I've never seen such an engaged 9 year old in a museum.  I REALLY liked the Louvre, it's a beautiful building, the art is wonderfully displayed and organized.  Even the famous pieces (Mona Lisa) managed to be enjoyable without large crowds.

To cap off our day we had a gelato, Paris style, fastidiously made into a lovely flower, and tasting wonderful.  I love all the attention to detail in the Parisian sweets.

Stinky Sewers




Notre Dame

resting inside Notre Dame




Notre Dame side view

Sewers

Charlie, Louvre

Winged Victory, Louvre

Mona Lisa, Louvre



Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Paris Picnics and Strikes

Orsay Museum * Rodin Gardens * Parisian Strike * Napoleon's Tomb

We've already decided that we need to return to Paris, soon.  Just to much to see, experience, and eat in one trip.  We love that the city isn't overrun by tourists, but seems to be mostly Parisians living their lives.  (Of course there are tourists in the touristy spots - but it doesn't take much to escape that).  We spent 2 1/2 hours in the Orsay today enjoying every minute.  We let the kids pick out a post card of their favorite picture before beginning and then promised them a macaron if they found it.  Everyone found theirs except Eric, his was on loan to a museum in Japan.  We learned another kid museum trick today - let them listen to their music while visiting.  Everyone has their iPods/iPhones with audio guides of the museums, but sometimes you just need to listen to music to pass the time.

After the Orsay we headed to the Rodin gardens - we didn't bother with the museum as we were short on time and wanted to see Napoleon's tomb before heading to our 4:00 appointment to climb the Eiffel Tower.  We had the kids pose in front of the Rodin statues, some were a bit tricky.

After a quick look at Napoleon's tomb - BIG tomb for such a little general - we were off to the Eiffel Tower.  We were SO disappointed when we got there and learned that the Eiffel Tower workers, along with other workers around the city, were on strike today!  No way - I was up until midnight exactly 90 days ago getting these tickets!  What's with the French and their labor strikes.  To pour salt into our wounds, the metro was also closed - gratefully we found one lone bus to take us the 3 miles back to our apartment, noone was in a mood to walk.

We needed something to lift our spirits, so we put together a picnic and grabbed our water coloring supplies and headed to the banks of the Seine River on our Isle St. Louis. We put down a nice table clothe (the one from our apartment) and had a lovely picnic like the Parisians on the banks of the river.  Afterwards we practiced our best impressionist water color painting - an activity that the girls loved and Charlie hated.  We finished off the evening with a crepe - mine was butter, sugar, and lemon - YUM!   The kids want to see if we can climb the Eiffel Tower tomorrow without a reservation, it means an early start!



Eric read us Hemingway

Napoleon's Tomb

Rodin posses


Orsay



Monday, June 27, 2016

Perfect Paris Day and Night

Saint Chapelle *Jardin Des Tuilleries * Musee de L'Orangerie *Champs Elysees * Arc De Triomphe * Seine River Cruise
17,343 Feet

We had such a pleasant Paris day.  The weather dropped from the mid 90s last week to the mid 60s and should hover around 70 all week - yea!  We visited the beautiful stained glass windows of Sainte Chapelle, some are even still originals from the 13th century.  The images and stories in each window were small and a bit hard to decipher from the floor, but we enjoyed the beauty of the colors inside the small chapel.  I should add that our apartment (although the worst we've had yet) is on the Isle St. Louis and about a 5 minute walk from Notre-Dame.

We walked to the L'Orangerie museum today via 1) the bakery where be bought pan au chocolate and baguettes (I've decided we should always be carrying around a fresh baguette; it just seems French) 2) a fancy pastry store where we bought hot chocolate that tasted like divine chocolate melted and then put in a cup - almost too rich 3) the Tuilleries garden where Sydney and Charlie played on the playground and we watched some Parisians play boules (like the Italian ball game bocce that we play at the beach).  As you can see, we were in no rush.

We really enjoyed the Musee L'Orangerie.  It's small, intimate and 2 of the rooms are built specifically for Monet's water lily panels that he did late in his life.  The water lily panels are mesmerizing and we could have sat and looked at them for hours.  The rest of the museum was impressive with several pieces of art from Picasso, Renior, Matisse, Cezanne.  It was enjoyable and everyone gave it two thumbs up.

Our next saunter through Paris was down the Champs-Elysees, we saw fancy cars, fancy shops, ate fancy cookies (macaroons - I won't reveal how much we paid for our fancy cookies), and the kids went on a 4 story covered slide in the Citron store.  At the end, we climbed the Arc de Triomphe and enjoyed the 360* views of Paris.  It's a pretty city - very new compared to Rome (and not as many church domes).  I could come back - next time without the children!  Since we had walked 17,456 steps (7.44 miles), we took the metro home!

After relaxing a bit in he apartment, Eric finishing an hour of CLE, and making a yummy dinner of fresh tomatoes, cheese varieties w/baguette, grilled chicken and string beans we headed out for our evening River "cruise" on the Seine  It started at 10:00.  Since it doesn't get dark until 10:30 we had to go late to see the lights turn on at dusk all over the city.  It was magical.  My favorite part was the many bridges that span the river.




Emma had to stand in the middle of the road for this picture

Macaroon delight!

Maren in front of Ladure


Citron store

Monet Water Lilies

Sainte Chapelle

Monet's Water Lilies

t


Sunday, June 26, 2016

Paris - Pastries and Friends

Church*St. Suplice*Luxembourgh Gardens*Bird Market*Bike Ride*UEFA Fan Zone
5 miles biked*5 miles walked

We had an amazing first day in Paris!  We knew our friends the Grahams were in town so we decided to spend the day with them.  First, church at the very international Paris ward - about a 10 minute walk from our Apartment.  We are staying on the Isle St. Louis (about a 5 minute walk from Notre Dame). Church was 1/2 in English and 1/2 in French, even down to the blessings of the Sacrament.  There were about 250 people there split between the chapel and the RS room.  Besides our friends we also ran into 2 other families from Salt Lake.  We decided to only do sacrament meeting today so that we could attend the end of Mass and an amazing organ recital in Saint Suplice church.  The organ could rival that at the Conference Center and the organist was amazing.  He played some pieces that made the church rattle and roll.

After donating to the local Boy Scout troop (we bought a homemade cookie) we were off to Luxembourgh Gardens for a Sunday picnic with our friends.  We picked up lunch while John Graham picked up pastries.  Wow - since John couldn't decide which pastry to buy, he bought about 12 different varieties and we tried to split each one 10 ways.  They were amazing - from dark, dense chocolate, to tart lemon, to light vanilla cream, to buttery to fruit.  They were also packaged individually in a cute pastry box.  It probably took them 30 minutes just to package all the pastries.

After relaxing a bit we walked to the big pond in the middle of the park and rented a toy sail boat for Charlie to sail around the pond.  He had a long stick that he could push the sail boat back into the pond when it came close to an edge.  He really enjoyed that!  After the park we hopped on the city bikes you can pick up all over Paris and road to the bird and flower market near Notre Dame.  The blooms on the flowers were as big as cantaloupe and the birds were charming.  We even spotted 2 baby kittens and some bunnies.  Afterwards we took our bikes and followed the bike path along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower.  That part was fun - the part that was not fun was maneuvering our bikes along the busy Paris streets to get to the bike path.  That part was scary as cars and busses passed us within just a couple of feet.  I think we'll stick to walking around the city, or taking the metro.

After our bike ride we happened upon the UEFA fans zone and wandered in to visit the booths set up for each country in the UEFA soccer tournament.  Our highlights were walking into the Sweden Ice house, free ice cream from Turkey - and the fun way he juggled the cones in his hands - Charlie and Sydney playing a soccer match with local kids, and the the Belgium virtual bike tour.  For dinner we connected back up with the Graham's and had falafel and crepes.  It doesn't get dark here until about 10:30 so we are staying out and up later than usual.  We concluded our evening by catching up on journal writing and a couple games of cards.  It was a perfect introduction to the city of Lights.


Street Dinner

Hanging with the Grahams

UEFA fan zone soccer game

Locks of Love



Emma at the bird market

Charlie at Luxembourgh Gardens


Yummy Pastries

St. Suplice organ